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The Bamboo Bag by Gucci

Hosted in the Ginza venue, the exhibition “BAMBOO 1947: THEN AND NOW” - from 3 August to 23 September 2024 - is a celebration of one of the iconic pieces of the Gucci fashion house: the Bamboo Bag. Several sources assert it was born in 1947 from “a brilliant intuition by Guccio Gucci” and represents the perfect union between Italy and Japan.

Two styles and worlds that find a way to communicate in a single accessory essential for women.

All photos @ Lamberto Rubino

During the Second World War, leather was difficult to find for suitcases and bags, so Guccio Gucci decided to introduce unusual materials from abroad to make up for this lack. Thus, various experiments began with flax, jute, hemp, and bamboo cane from the Land of the Rising Sun.

Among the advantages of bamboo, in addition to low costs and high availability, are lightness, strength, and flexibility.

Through the skill of specialized artisans, the bamboo canes are softened and manipulated into a semicircular shape by heating over high heat. They are then covered with several layers of lacquer and finally toasted at the end of the process to obtain the dark effect.

The Bamboo bag officially entered the “it bag” category when the actress Ingrid Bergman wore it in the film “Journey to Italy” by Roberto Rossellini in 1954. From that moment, many other celebrities, such as Princess Diana, Sophia Loren, Grace Kelly, and Liz Taylor, began wearing it in private life and films.

The exhibition “BAMBOO 1947: THEN AND NOW,” divided into two floors, tells the story of this fascinating bag in broad terms. More than seventy years later, it still captures the hearts of women.

The first floor is a splendid showcase of all the variations of the Bamboo Bag, from the immersive room with glass display walls to the more sober one with classic white displays to a small room that hosts the projection of a craftsman from Gucci's ArtLab, who explains how the iconic bag handle is produced.

The second floor is a tribute to Gucci's 60th anniversary in Japan. Six small spaces have been set up to celebrate this union - outlined by elegant white hanging structures and washi paper displays - which exhibit reinterpretations of the bag by Japanese artists. Let's see some of them.

“LACQUER” by Ai Tokeshi, a Japanese Ryukyu lacquer artist. Tokeshi experiments with integrating gold leaf and layers of lacquer on the bag's leather, combining the Japanese lacquer tradition with the Italian tradition of leather goods.

“METAL CARVING” by Morihito Katsura and Naoko Ai. The two goldsmiths fused the bamboo bag with ornaments in precious metals—chiseling and gold inlay—using goldsmith techniques from the Japanese Heian period.

“PORCELAIN” by Hirotsune Nakazato, a porcelain artist. The Bamboo Bag by Nakazato features a hand-painted porcelain handle and closures.

“PAINTING” by Nami Yokoyama paints the bags with luminous writing inspired by neon writing. The artist combines the photorealistic painting style with the leather of the bamboo bag.

“PHOTOGRAPH” by Daido Moriyama, a photographer famous for his black and white photos, uses the surface of the Bamboo Bag as a canvas for his works. Unique views, city streets, and faces contrast with the brown bamboo handle and closure.

“PAINTING” by Yui Yaegashi, a Japanese abstract painter. Yaegashi transforms the Bamboo Bag into an actual painting through his freehand brushwork.

Overall, it is an exciting and pleasant event that, from the point of view of the exhibition, leaves some space for reflection. The exhibition's first floor seems to repeat Gucci's latest exhibitions. From Archetype to Gucci Visions, the installation consists of elements already seen.

From here, a small reflection arises. Why don't many luxury brands reuse fittings? Considering the high construction costs and ecological footprint, reusing the displays could be a virtuous solution.

Only a few brands are used to reuse the fittings and furnishings. There seems to be a fear that they would not fall into the “Luxury” category by doing so. Yet, the world is changing. Even in the luxury world, public sensitivity is taking this path. Gucci, against the current, seems to be following a worthy path in this direction.

While I have acknowledged the positive aspects, it is important to point out some areas for improvement. Reusing is commendable, but it should be done creatively. For this event, three rooms were identical to those in the previous exhibition. It would have been more engaging to explore retrofitting the existing elements where possible.

A more inventive approach, incorporating the well-known “Three Rs” of Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle, could elevate luxury companies to a higher standard of ethical and environmental responsibility.