Fenix Rising: A New Landmark in Rotterdam

Ellen Boonstra07/20/2025≫ Architect

Fenix

An eye-catching new structure in Rotterdam now houses the world’s first museum dedicated to migration

The first thing you notice about Rotterdam's new Fenix museum is the swirling stainless steel staircase that seems to levitate above the building. This distinctive architectural feature, called the Tornado, winds 30 meters through the structure and ends at a rooftop viewing platform. It’s not just a striking design feature – it also captures the sense of movement and change that migrants experience when leaving home to start a new life elsewhere.

Fenix is situated in the middle of Katendrecht, once a gritty harbor district shaped by shipping, dock work and migrant life. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the neighborhood buzzed with sailors, laborers and newcomers. It was also home to continental Europe’s first Chinatown and became known for its nightlife and red-light district. Like much of the city, Katendrecht was heavily damaged during World War II and struggled for decades with decline and disinvestment.

One of the area’s most illustrious buildings is Hotel New York, the former headquarters of the Holland America Line, which overlooks the Maas River and became a symbol of Rotterdam’s migration history. Katendrecht served as a key departure point for millions of migrants heading to places like Canada, the United States, and Australia in search of better lives. It was also where many newcomers arrived and chose to stay.

Over the past two decades, Katendrecht has steadily transformed. Starting in the early 2000s, historic buildings were restored and new homes, offices, cultural venues, parks, and restaurants began to appear. The area became more lively and increasingly upscale, and nowadays Katendrecht is considered as one of Rotterdam’s most dynamic and interesting neighborhoods.

A glimpse of the San Francisco warehouse from the past.

The building that houses Fenix, the San Francisco Warehouse, dates back to 1923 and was once the largest transshipment warehouse in the world. Severely damaged during the war and later divided into two buildings after a fire, it has now been transformed into a cultural space. Its name, Fenix, refers to the mythical phoenix that rises from its ashes, a nod to both the building’s renewal and the migration stories it holds.

The reincarnation of the warehouse into the Fenix Museum of Migration was made possible by the Droom en Daad Foundation, a Rotterdam-based cultural philanthropy group founded in 2016. The foundation acquired the building and commissioned MAD Architects, the Beijing-based firm led by Ma Yansong, to reimagine the space. Known for futuristic projects like the Harbin Opera House in China and the Absolute Towers in Canada, this is MAD’s first cultural project in Europe.

The design respects the original warehouse while incorporating new architectural elements. Original features like sliding doors, window frames, and green-painted facades were preserved. Sustainability upgrades include a green roof for insulation and rainwater management, along with a thermal energy system to reduce the building’s environmental footprint. At the heart of it all is the Tornado.

Creating the Tornado staircase was one of the most complex parts of the renovation. MAD aimed for the structure to appear weightless and organic, almost as if it were suspended in air. They used a steel space-frame system that allowed the handrails to function as structural trusses, providing both stability and a sense of flow. Each of the 297 stainless steel panels and over 12,000 wooden planks was individually engineered and polished. The staircase is an outstanding example of precision engineering and thoughtful design. Visitors can climb its 336 steps to a rooftop platform with panoramic views of the city, the Maas River, and Hotel New York.

Inside, the museum spans 16,000 square meters, with a mix of gallery and open space. The opening exhibition, All Directions, includes more than 150 works by international artists. British filmmaker Steve McQueen explores themes of race, identity, and memory. South Korean artist Do Ho Suh uses translucent fabric sculptures to explore displacement and belonging, while Dutch photographer Rineke Dijkstra presents intimate portraits capturing people in transition. French artist Sophie Calle blends photography and narrative to reflect on absence and emotion, and South African artist William Kentridge combines charcoal animation and theater to address trauma and migration.

These works are presented alongside personal items donated by Rotterdam residents and historical artifacts. A piece of the Berlin Wall, a migrant boat from Lampedusa, and a rare Nansen passport issued to stateless refugees after World War I offer broader context. Collectively, these objects and artworks offer a range of perspectives on migration in all its complexities.

Another major exhibition, The Family of Migrants, draws inspiration from Edward Steichen’s Family of Man project. It features more than 190 photographs from 55 countries, spanning over a century. Works by Dorothea Lange, who documented American migrants during the Great Depression, Lewis Hine, known for his photography of child labor and Ellis Island arrivals, and photojournalist Steve McCurry capture moments of movement, hope, hardship, and belonging.

The Suitcase Labyrinth
© Iwan Baan

One of the most emotional parts of the museum is the Suitcase Labyrinth, made up of 2,000 donated suitcases, each representing a personal story. Some are nearly a century old, others much more recent. As visitors move through the maze of luggage, an audio guide shares voices and memories that speak of separation, resilience, longing, and arrival. A work by Chilean artist Alfredo Jaar reflects on the often-invisible networks of support migrants rely on during times of displacement.

At the center of the museum is Plein, a 2,000 square meter indoor square intended as a public gathering space. This space is accessible to everyone and is used for community events such as seminars, markets, and performances. Guests are free to sit, read, or just enjoy the ambiance. Plein emphasizes Fenix's mission of serving as a platform for cultural exchange among people of many backgrounds.

The food and beverage offerings are equally diverse. The museum includes O Café and Bakery, run by Michelin-starred chef Maksut Aşkar, who brings Anatolian culinary traditions from Turkey to Rotterdam. Outside on the quay, Granucci Gelato, a family business founded in 1929, serves handmade ice cream. An espresso bar on the first floor offers a quiet spot to enjoy coffee while overlooking the city.